In the Ottawa region, all of this is compounded by the experimental and pioneering nature of what hopefully is a fledging industry. Winemakers here are working with cold-hardy hybrids in a region where the mere idea of planting a vineyard of any kind has been remote at best. Denis Perrault at Domaine Perrault, along with winemaker Bernard Martineau and with the help of sommelier Julie Ricard has come a long way in ten years. I've only been drinking the wine for a few years now, but each year what they are pouring gets better. And during a recent visit I noticed that there is less wine made from imported Niagara grapes and more wine from the fruit of his vineyard on offer.
All of this seems exciting to me. I see the potential for a local industry based on a product that I love. As a wine lover I feel invested in wanting these wineries to succeed. For me that means buying the wines when they are good and convincing everyone I know to do the same. It means going back from year to year with the knowledge that it's all a work in progress.
Last weekend I came home with six very drinkable bottles from the vineyard.
This Rosalie is a blend of St. Croix and Sabrevois. It's got a general characteristic of a Beaujolias: light, lots of berry fruit; a little light oaking has brough out some spicy notes and a sweetness; a bit of earth in the glass adds a roundness to the palate . Chilled, this is very easy drinking and would pair well with a platter of charcuterie ($13.00).
So here's the question. What about the people who stock wine lists, and write about wine, and critique wine? Is there a responsibility for those in the industry to be supportive?
Hi Holly,
ReplyDeleteInteresting post. I have to admit I haven't been to Perrault in a while so I can't comment on the increase in quality, however the wine I did try when I was there would not have been of the caliber to make my wine list. I do really hope they are improving in quality and I do wish them the absolute best. Unfortunately how the wine tastes has much more of a bearing on whether the wine makes the list vs. if the wine is local or not. Ideally both criteria could be met but I can't put a wine on the list just because it happens to be local. I have a responsibility to my guests to ensure that the wines are first and foremost delicious.
Which brings my to my second point. I don't know what these wines taste like as the sommelier for a very busy wine focused restaurant in Ottawa. I don't have time to approach every winery in the world to see what's new every vintage. There isn't a winery in the world that can sell their wines without any kind of sales force. So as great as the wines may be they need to be brought around to taste otherwise no one is going to list them. They should especially be focused on wine friendly restaurants in Ottawa. This is just the reality of wine sales.
I hope this clears up what I believe my responsibilities (or priorities) are regarding stocking a wine list. Delicious wines sold with great service. Keep 'em coming Holly!
Grayson
Hey Grayson, Thanks for reading! And absolutely, you should only be putting wines you feel are worthy on your list. I guess I was more getting at the idea of simply putting them on the radar... you know, checking them out from time to time and monitoring progress. There are a couple more vineyards opening soon and it'll be interesting to see where it all goes. And yah, maybe they need someone organize them all... do some marketing. Great feedback!
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